Sram MTB Grease Butter, 1 oz

Product Information

Finance is subject to application, financial circumstances and borrowing history. Performance Cycling Limited FRN: 720557 trading as Tredz are authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. We are a credit broker not a lender – credit is subject to status and affordability and is provided by Mitsubishi HC Capital UK PLC. Terms & Conditions Apply. I know what you're thinking, is the product really that good? When I factor in labour (mine or paid) versus longevity and performance I can easily justify using them myself and recommending them to every discerning year-round rider and, frankly, my one complaint is that wish I could buy it in larger quantities to cut the cost down.

From what I recall, you only want about 1/3 of a bearing filled with grease. I guess this is due to the grease interfering with the balls rolling around on their races, causing them to skip and slide instead of actually rolling. Thus you drastically decrease their life. Pro X, I approached Dumonde Tech to do a review of their regular lube based on their claims of longevity and they didn’t hesitate to step up. It was a great review experience (it does what they say and a bottle lasts a loooong time following their application process - which is the same I used for T-9 = one drop/roller at a time). Great stuff, but my favourite thing about it is it led me to their Freehub oil/grease.I would consistently kill bearings on my V1 bronson frame. On my V3 bronson frame I've yet to have anything but silky smoth bearings after 15 months of ownership. My V1 had an issue where I think it was flexing under load, binding the bearings, and destroying them prematurely. I have to be careful not to be too cynical but in the past when I've seen something that works really well being replaced with something that arguably doesn't work as well (from a performance perspective) it's either pulling cost or pumping marketing. I hear you on this antibiotic thing. I find as long as you wipe down at the end of every ride, reapply and do a final wipe it's good enough to keep chain going till end of life. I use a dry brush to get the gunk off and this works well with Dumonde Tech or Maxima dry chain lube. Full solvent tank cleaning is a waste of time. I've also come to feel this way about linkage bearings. I did at one time flush bearings and re grease. This is a pain in the arse. It's better to wipe as much away as possible and just push new grease in with a small point grease gun wiping any dirty grease the comes out. Same with new bearings, there isn't enough grease in them so just pop a seal and push some more of whatever in and away you go. I use an ultrasonic cleaner with simple green HD for all my cleaning. Honestly, I use whatever bearing grease from the industrial supply store (right now I have some purple stuff). Slathering your bearings with anything is going to be way better than the factory bike assembly. Whether it’s a jersey that doesn’t fit, or the colour is not quite right, sometimes you’ll need to return items to us.

And, I'm curious. Always curious. Since I'm using the Silver Grease in non-King hub bearings, and the Blue Grease in non-King headset and frame bearings, I'm also figuring on experimenting with the RDL-2 in a non-King hub where I normally run Dumonde Tech Freehub Oil on the coil-sprung pawls to see how it holds up in a non-Ring Drive application. Never stop trying things! As an aside, if you have a steel frame, Boeshield T-9 is also an excellent product to coat the internal tubes with as a rust prohibitor. I do all our steel MTB frames every year. Anyways - everyone has their own thing but I like how much less lube I use compared to my previous chain maintenance routines.

Slickoleum

Dumonde Tech Regular is more precise to apply and also lasts way longer. See Cooper's evangelism re. it's awesome & clean too. I don't see the point in running a new drive train in the winter and trying to keep it all looking fresh and new. A big ol oily mess actually runs better than you think and all the gunk makes it forgiving when running it into the ground. If I ran a new retrain in the winter and swapped on a chain or two, I'd have to replace it in the spring anyways. This way I just run the one that is half worn all winter and start fresh in the spring. My winter program is to wear the whole thing into the ground. An old chain, cassette and chairing can stay on all winter if you just let the oil/dirt residue build up. When I hit the shoulder season, I just leave the old drive train on and keep applying oil. Every so often I rub off some excess but in general just leave it a big oily mess. If you find an item at a lower price with another commercial internet retailer, you will receive it from us at the same price, provided the conditions listed in the link are met.