FIXODROP EPILAME- Although not an oil or lubricant, I couldn't talk about oils without mentioning Epilame. One big problem with Rodico is most people manipulate it with their bare fingers. So all the oil, dirt, sweat, etc, end up in the Rodico. Then it get's used to "clean" a part, leaving a nice film of skin oil and sweat and who knows what else. If used for cleaning a jewel, the film can promote the oil spreading, like an anti-epilame. If used on a steel part or a dial it could lead to rust or oxidation down the road. There are many types of lubrications and each brand will categorize them differently. So I’ll go over the common ones. Don't depend on Rodico too much. The use of Rodico should a last case scenario. Rodico is great! Except the fact that most watchmakers keep them for years on end and never change/throw them out. If you do use Rodico, make sure it's less than a week old since opening.

I must admit, I use Tesco supermarket brand "Bluetac" in place or Rodico (but then again, I'm not doing this for a living). Tesco's stuff is an off white colour, and I would say slightly less refined (i.e. cheap). Call it what you want, magic, a watchmaker’s best friend, watchmaker’s putty, no matter how you put it the little bar of Bergeon Rodico cleaning compound is something a watchmaker should never go without. Although the original green putty was designed to clean small and delicate watch parts, it’s just as commonly used for a variety of other handy reasons while working on watches. Due to the consistency of the putty it gives you precise control over where and what you are cleaning or grabbing. Take a look below at the many ways you can use Rodico cleaning putty and learn expert tips on getting the most use out of a single bar of Bergeon 6033 Rodico. If you have lint or dust on the hands, do not use Rodico or other types of watchmaking "putty" to remove it. These all leave residue behind, so I would recommend the urethane cleaning swabs: It is indeed handy for getting stubborn cap jewels out of settings and many things, but should be kept off clean parts and dials, away from oil/jewels, and when used to "clean" already clean parts, use fresh stuff. If you need to handle it with your finger, do it with finger cots.

After you fixed all the problems how does the watch look in various positions? Is amazing what defects can do to screw up timekeeping and until the watches running in good condition it's hard to tell if the balance has a problem or not from a poising error. Then this is a modern screwless balance more than likely it does not have a poising error unless somebody's modified it. The factory poised it within the specifications of the watch it may not be perfect but it still should be reasonably poised unless you're having other issues which you are having. So now how does it look in various positions that you fixed all the problems? After all, the REMOVAL of debris/smudges from glass by way of “dabbing” is far superior to the REDISTRIBUTION of such by way of “wiping.” You don't mention what type of hand setting tools you have, but if the tips of your tools or press runners are plastic, make sure they stay clean and don't get damaged. If they are damaged either repair that damage or replace the tips. Like anything related to watchmaking, care and cleanliness are the keys to good work. MOEBIUS 8200-We'll use 8200 for mainsprings (some use it on the setting system for older watches). Generally, we'll clean mainsprings with Solvent H. After which, we'll run a small amount of 8200 onto the entire length of the mainspring itself. 8200 has been a staple in many technical guides. Other brands may have different standard operating procedures so again, this is just a generalization. You always want oil in the cup, not on top of the cup. It should not be anywhere else other then inside the cup where the pivot is. Any oil anywhere outside of the cup will cause oil to spread and or attract unwanted build up.

Would seem a waste to take everything apart and clean it again, but that may account for the high servicing cost if you go to the manufacturer (usually two or three times more than most independent watchmakers). Use latex gloves to avoid adding new dirt and oils to your freshly cleaned watch parts and to prevent the Rodico from getting soiled faster. Don’t use Rodico on warm watches, warm parts, or warm tools, as it will turn to a slime consistency from the heat. This includes where you store it while not in use, avoid leaving it in warm areas like directly below a bench light or next to a heated cleaner.

More than likely if it's a vintage quartz it will require servicing. Start a new discussion with your quartz watches with pictures the movement So they can find you servicing information.

If you are doing this for a living, I would suggest use the genuine Rodico since it is made for the purpose, and may well be formulated differently again. Rodico will age in time, discontinue the use of a bar once it starts leaving a residue behind. Some watchmakers swear that a well kept bar of Rodico can stay fresh and last for more than 10 years, while others who use it religiously can easily go through a single bar within a few months time. HP 1000 or HP 1300 - (Fun fact, HP stands for High Pressure) Heavy synthetic oils. Generally used for high pressure/torque and low speed areas. Commonly used for: Barrel arbors, center wheel, and third wheel. Some brands will also use this for the setting system and calendar mechanisms. There are differences between HP 1000 and HP 1300 (such as viscosity etc.) but we’ll go into that another time. If a piece of Rodico is to break off in a small space, dab with a another small piece of Rodico to remove it. I use Horotec F Pattern tweezers for handling hands - these are stainless steel and have large flat highly polished tips.I have also heard from watchmakers from other forums that Rodico is banned by many watch manufacturers, and their service Center. It seems from what I hear, rodico is so effective that it has allowed watchmakers to cut corners at various steps. Examples are oiling; if you get a mini drop on the periphery of the jewel, careful rodico can correct it rather than cleaning up the whole jewel and reapply. Also not using the finger cots that someone mentioned here already, doable because at the end you could remove the marks with... rodico! When changing oils, use something like Solvent H to clean the oil pot. Do not just simply wipe it with paper.