Buzzy's Slick Honey Cycle Fork Suspension Grease

Product Information

Internal gear hubs usually use oil, but it's important to use the correct lubricant. Some hubs like the NuVinci hub literally are designed around the special oil they use. For other hub types, the grease doesn't usually matter. Now that we have the lower legs separated from the upper tubes, it's time to remove the old foam rings. The foam rings sit right underneath the dust wiper and are designed to catch any dirt that gets past the dust wiper. Over time the foam rings can collect a lot of crud and dry out. Finance is subject to application, financial circumstances and borrowing history. Performance Cycling Limited FRN: 720557 trading as Tredz are authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. We are a credit broker not a lender – credit is subject to status and affordability and is provided by Mitsubishi HC Capital UK PLC. Terms & Conditions Apply. WET SEAL: Our product Wet Seal was the first lubricant introduced to the industry specifically for suspension forks and this article. In 2014 we had the Suspension Experts in Asheville run a serious of tests on every fork to make sure our formula was 100% safe. Hydraulic mineral oil - this is for disc brakes, and is different from DOT fluid. Anecdotally people use mineral oil including baby oil, and it 'works'. But Shimano claim that only theirs is good and others can destroy your brakes. https://bikerumor.com/2013/04/11/tech-speak-brake-fluid-break-down-and-implications-for-road-disc-updated/ Take this with a pinch of salt as there are bunch of hydraulic mineral oils sold specifically for bicycles and no complaints. Different hydraulic mineral oils do have different boiling points, and different viscosity.

Unfortunately it's not very clear which grease and additives is best, because bicycles are different from lots of other applications in that speeds are quite low, and temperatures not too high. Durability is likely to be important.Cleaning the stanchions removes any dirt and debris from the surface that the dust wiper seal keeps out of the fork with every compression. This extends the life of your dust wiper seals, minimizes damage to upper tubes, and minimizes lower leg contamination. Before we get started, remove the fork from your bike and make sure it is nice and clean. Also, make sure you have a clean work environment that way no dirt or grime can get into your nice fork. The easiest way to service your fork is to hold the fork by either the steerer tube or the lower leg in a bike stand. Now let's get to it!

Before removing the bottom nuts, make sure the bottom of your fork is raised higher than the steerer tube so that once the bottom nuts are removed, oil will not spill. Typically you want to use a lubricant that has a similar composition of what’s found in the bath system. MUC-OFF: We recommend our Silicon Shine. BIKERUMOR: Is there any product/type of lube you should NOT use? Before you put the new foam rings into the fork lowers, you will want to soak the foam rings in a small container of fork fluid. The damper side for the Grip 2 damper specifically uses Fox 5wt Teflon Infused bath oil and the air spring side uses Fox 20wt Gold bath oil. Give the foam rings a few minutes to absorb as much of the fork oil as possible.Fill each syringe with the correct amount of bath oil for each side of the fork. The fork we are servicing here is a 2020 Fox 36 Factory series fork with the Grip 2 damper. For this particular model, we are adding 10cc of Fox 20wt Gold to the air spring side, and 40cc of Fox 5wt Teflon Infuse oil to the damper side of the fork. WET SEAL: A clean, dry Micro-Fiber rag works best. If you’re having trouble getting heavy grease off the seal or stanchions, we recommend using a little bit of water on the micro-fiber rag. DO NOT USE SOAP. Soap will break down the good oils and grease inside your fork which can result in needing an entire rebuild. WET SEAL: Yes. One can imagine their stanchions are penetrating their lowers. Given it’s a tight fit, lube will reduce the heat on your forks’ seals as the result of friction. Without using lube, seals prematurely wear resulting in dirt/grime finding it’s way into the bath system. The space between the seals and the stanchions is extremely minute to prevent foreign particles from entering your lowers. Seals are the major line of defense for keeping them out. Ensuring that stanchions/seals are properly lubed will extend the life and performance of your fork. MUC-OFF: Keeping your fork stanchions well lubricated is vital as it reduces the stiction between the wiper seal and the stanchion, which improves small bump sensitivity and trail buzz as the stiction is dramatically reduced. It also helps to keep dirt off the stanchion and seals as the silicon repels dirt and grime to the surfaces cleaner and hence reduces the risk of contaminants getting into the wiper seal (and in turn your fork oil). Internal hub grease. This is with calcium hydroxide 5-10%, white solid lubricants 2-3.5%, & 2.5-4.1% bentonite, other additives and mineral oil. This grease is calcium-based for wash-resistance, and temperatures are not high.

MUC-OFF: Yes! You can’t beat regular cleaning of your whole bike to reduce wear and tear and use a good protectant all over your bike! We wash our bikes after every ride, little and often is better than waiting and turning it into a hellishly big job! Besides these other manufacturers sell different greases for the same job, often with different compounds. Different criteria will include: Here we are using Sram Butter. Apply a layer of Sram Butter to the inside of the dust seals. This will help keep the fork lubricated and feeling supple.Any carbon parts like carbon seatposts should use grease recommended by the manufacturer or for the application. Beside this forks often contain a renewable oil, which will be somewhat similar to oil used inside hubs, and manufacturers also will specify a fork lube. Now let's move on to the information you seek. Unfortunately, your question is impossible to answer, as you've provided insufficient data. Lubriplate makes a hundred different products. Some might be appropriate for your application, others are definitely not. They even make a parting agent to separate wooden molds from concrete. This probably wouldn't work well in your fork. Also, some frame couplers specify special fluoro-compound grease, and it's best to follow the instructions or potentially ruin your frame from thread galling. Free hub seal grease . This is not for freehubs in general but is specifically for Shimano's Microspline seals, and for specific seals there. The datasheet gives the same basic constituents as the previous one, but it might be different.

MUC-OFF: Start by hosing down thoroughly to remove any dirt but do not force water into the seals. Our Nano Tech Bike Cleaner can be used to remove any stubborn grime and then rinsed and dried with a clean cloth. You can then apply a light coating of Silicon Shine around the stanchion/wiper seal and you are good to go. Some greases really are special. But in other cases the grease doesn't really matter. Since so many companies just say to use their approved grease, it can be hard to tell apart which applications are really special and which ones don't really matter. First, read all the answers you've already received. There's a lesson to be learned, if you look closely. Make sure you orient the lowers on to the upper tubes correctly. The damper side is on the rider's right, and the air spring on the riders left side. Gently slide the upper tubes through the dust wipers without pushing the damper rod and air spring rod all the way through the bottom of the lower. That way we can add bath oil! Internal hub maintenance oil and SG-S700 oil. These serve a similar function in lubricating the internals of Shimano hub gears, but different designs seem to warrant tow different oils. Other IGH will require oil as well, e.g. Rohloff oilMRP: We recommend cleaning your seal areas with a mild soap and water mix periodically, sooner rather than later if there is significant dirt build up. WET SEAL: Our Wet Seal also works great on Dropper Posts. If you find that your dropper post is slow to rise or won’t rise at all but has proper air pressure, Wet Seal will have that post popping up like a hen at sunrise. Similar when applying Wet Seal to your fork, clean the dropper stanchion and seal with a micro-fiber rag before applying our product. Once applied, drop and rise the post 3-4 times and clean off the remaining liquid and grime with a micro-fiber rag. MRP: One tip we do recommend is to occasionally flip your bike over to allow the bath oil accumulated at the bottom of your lowers to wet your bushings and seals. If there is a sufficient amount of oil in there, it should splash around as the fork cycles anyway, but to expedite that process and make your fork feel fresh on the first hit, do the above.