Belfast Butler Sink Wooden Draining Board Made from Solid Oak Wood - Rised and Angled

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Keep collections to yourself or inspire other shoppers! Keep in mind that anyone can view public collections - they may also appear in recommendations and other places. So you say that I should rub down the whole thing - do I then use the Danish oil? Any do/don'ts with that - never used it before. Marine plywood would work in this instance, but that stuff is very expensive and not particularly attractive. For regular plywood, a waterproof or water-resistant epoxy coating would be best. Wooden worktops make a beautiful complement to undermounted stainless steel kitchen sinks and glossy ceramic sinks. Without a built-in draining board, it is sensible to ensure that kitchenware can be left to dry beside your sink without leaving standing water that could compromise your wood work surface. Angled worktop draining boards and built-in drainage grooves are both smart solutions.

This finest quality wooden draining board is made from solid top quality oak wood - oak is the hardest wood - that means your drainer will last long. To keep the all-natural look flowing throughout your kitchen, you might like to add an angled drainer made from wood. Like this beautiful design fromKohler produces this cutting board to accessorize their sinks. However, this is the 3rd cutting board I've gone through in the last 10 years. All the failures have been because of wood strip delamination. None of these cutting boards have been put into the dishwasher and none have been subjected to excessive exposure to water. When they're cleaned, they're wiped with a damp towel and then immediately wiped with a dry cotton towel. Notice the chunk missing from the LH side. Was wondering how you'd gotten on. I'd used the 1010 for mine in ash with a long 8mm shank core box bit. 3 or 4 progressively deeper passes per groove. With the length of the shank there was some chatter but very shallow final passes came good in the end. There is a wide array of plastic angled drainers on the market, and they come in a variety of styles and sizes. Whatever style you decide on, these drainers are designed to allow water to collect beneath the items you have been washing up and easily drain away. Usually, there is a narrow spout at the base, to channel any excess water directly into the sink. To complement worktops in a traditional kitchen setting, consider a ceramic angled drainer. This ceramic angled drainer is designed to sit directly on any work surface, though is particularly well-suited for protecting a wooden worktop. Having a means to keep itself in place and draining over the edge of the basin courtesy of the hooks at the front.

Traditional thinking would deem that the laminated wood strips would be your best defense against twisting and cupping. However, it's also not your best defense against individual strip delamination. This cutting board is about 10 years old now. No cupping at all. The only surface treatment is a good soaking with oil from sunflower seeds about once a year. Recently a glue line at one of the long edge has started to open up ever so slightly. That's it. I have been spending TOO MUCH time reading about this subject. I am going to go ahead with this one piece of wood and see what happens. Worst case, if it cupps (hopefully on the bottom, I will plane it down, and give it to someone in the family and start again.

This Belfast sink drainer model also is equipped with rubber pads so your worktop is protected from scratches. No mess - wooden drainer is equipped with a drip groove to stop water running under the draining board. Yes but I don't know what it is for and I don't use it except for piling more stuff on as in current kitchen there isn't enough worktop. While I was looking for an oil/wax product this morning to put on the new walnut cutting board, I happened across these folks in Kingston NY that produce custom made cutting boards. It was this sentence in particular that caught my attention. I then applied a HEAVY application of Boos cream and let that soak in for about 12 hours. I then again wiped off the residual cream left behind.

I suggest you do laminate the boards and try to orient the grain to minimize expansion/contraction issues. The main challenge with this is going to be preventing cupping.New sink is coming into new kitchen next week - living the dream with a double butler sink and no draining board. I really like the way the combination performs. The oil is just a refined mineral oil and using it alone, it leaves a very oily surface behind. The cream is a combination of oil and bees wax and it imparts a very nice finish to the wood. I would recommend against using plywood for this application. The glues in most plywoods don't stand up to water over time and will begin to degrade, leading to delamination of the plywood layers. Also the work surface is edged in the same wood & that looks to be the same - so I presume that I need to treat that the same.

In this top view the Kohler product is already missing the lower LH radius and there are about 10 different places where the strips are starting to delaminate. This will last maybe another 6 months. If you’ve already done that, your item hasn’t arrived, or it’s not as described, you can report that to Etsy by opening a case. Thanks for the detailed explanation @Cheese . You keep on inching me closer towards getting the pc1cc. I would in general dissuade you from trying to make something like this from common plywoods which have glue joints of questionable durability. It would be much preferable to make a piece like this from solid wood. Each of our maple cutting boards are cut from a single piece of wood, which means there are no glue seams."The people who we bought the house of did not leave me any instructions on how to maintain it but did leave some danish oil under the sink. It looks to me like they have put a coat of polyurethane over the top of whatever was there as there are patchy bits and some uneven bits. I decided to go with Boos oil & cream. I put 2 HEAVY applications of Boos oil on every surface of the board using a foam brush. That took about 36 hours to fully soak in. I then wiped off the light residual oil left on the surface. As I noted in reply 5, the Kohler laminated cutting board is always falling apart so I decided to make one from solid walnut. It's 3 ~19mm boards making up the width. 3 years on and there's only the slightest of cupping with 2 stretchers screwed in underneath. Expansion across the way has been surprisingly non existent (mitred corners are still nice and tight). It's ash, which was completely the wrong wood to use, but it's what I had at the time and it was just an experiment born from necessity... so no biggy. My personal advice is to not use full width. If you look at cutting boards and other stuff like that, the real reason decades ago they were put together the way they were was to combat the whole cupping and expansion and contraction issues.