Dandy Style: 250 Years of British Men's Fashion

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Carlyle, Thomas. Sartor Resartus. In A Carlyle Reader: Selections from the Writings of Thomas Carlyle. Edited by G.B. Tennyson. London: Cambridge University Press, 1984. Miles Lambert, co-editor of Dandy Style and costume curator at Manchester Art Gallery, explained: “It’s about looking at what people have worn and why they’ve worn it. George was never unpowdered or unperfumed, immaculately bathed and shaved, and dressed in a plain dark blue coat, he was always perfectly brushed, perfectly fitted, showing much perfectly starched linen, all freshly washed, and composed with an elaborately knotted cravat. From the mid-1790s, Beau Brummell was the early embodiment of “the celebrity”, a man chiefly famous for being famous. A Dandy is a Clothes-wearing Man, a Man whose trade, office, and existence consists in the wearing of Clothes. Every faculty of his soul, spirit, purse, and person is heroically consecrated to this one object, the wearing of Clothes wisely and well: so that as others dress to live, he lives to dress. . . . Rosie Gnatiuk, costume curator at Manchester Art Gallery, said: “The fashion gallery supports our ambitions to bring the costume and dress collection into the heart of the city.”

Regarding the social function of the dandy in a stratified society, like the British writer Carlyle, in Sartor Resartus, the French poet Baudelaire said that dandies have "no profession other than elegance . . . no other [social] status, but that of cultivating the idea of beauty in their own persons. . . . The dandy must aspire to be sublime without interruption; he must live and sleep before a mirror." Likewise, French intellectuals investigated the sociology of the dandies ( flâneurs) who strolled Parisian boulevards; in the essay " On Dandyism and George Brummell" (1845) Jules Amédée Barbey d'Aurevilly analysed the personal and social career of Beau Brummell as a man-about-town who arbitrated what was fashionable and what was unfashionable in polite society. [21]

Dandy fashion on a budget

Himid’s portraits were certainly highlights of the exhibition. The ‘Dandy’ and the ‘Tailor’ were selected from a collection of five life-sized portraits originally commissioned by the Gallery of Costume at Platt Hall. Photo: Michael Pollard @ Manchester Art Gallery Photo: Michael Pollard @ Manchester Art Gallery Strictly fine, top-quality fabrics for the dandy. Inferior, tasteless fabrics are a big no-no. Instead, keep your eyes on cashmere, tweed, linen, corduroy, silk or satin, for example.

The exhibition opened on 7 October and showcases a selection of costumes, fine art, and unseen pieces from the gallery’s own collection. There are also various loans from other museums and individuals on display. Camus, Albert (2012). "II Metaphysical Rebellion". The Rebel: An Essay on Man in Revolt. Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. p.51. ISBN 9780307827838 . Retrieved 11 October 2014.Not only part of the name of our store, Dandy is a term used to describe a man who pays great attention to how he dresses and who often dresses flamboyantly.

Dandyism was then inherited by the Russians and with a blink of an eye, the ideology was spread all over the world. Historical Example of Dandies The gallery mentions the ‘accidental’ and natural placement of the paint, as a result of Horsley’s artistic endeavours. However, it appears that the splodges of paint were predetermined meticulously and performatively to mimic an artist’s work outfit. Photo: Amelia Cole @ The Mancunion Red corded silk coat (1770-80) To some extent, modern menswear directly embraces dandyism, from suit construction to the growing importance of grooming. Yet, whether you’re thinking traditionally or specifically in the present, not everything menswear falls within this scope. Instead, to become a modern dandy: The majority of the exhibits are from the gallery’s collection, with the addition of some loans from private lenders and art institutions. Showcasing around 75 outfits, there will be no shortage of dramatic looks but there are also some very special highlights.

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Dandy style is not just about your clothes; it’s about your general appearance. Therefore, grooming plays an essential role and a true Dandy wouldn’t be caught dead looking unkempt or with an untrimmed beard. His cut, color and style will always be maintained; presenting himself as immaculate in appearance. This section needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sourcesin this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. ( May 2008) ( Learn how and when to remove this template message) The counterpart to the dandy is the quaintrelle, a woman whose life is dedicated to the passionate expression of personal charm and style, to enjoying leisurely pastimes, and the dedicated cultivation of the pleasures of life. This dynamic exhibition and flexible engagement space supports our ambition to reimagine the costume and dress collection. Bringing this important resource into the heart of the city means that we can show it in the context of the wider collection and as an integral part of the story of art and culture. The decision was taken not to exhibit this item within the timeframe of the exhibition because of its physically vulnerable condition. There was neither time nor capacity to carry out the necessary conservation work to display it safely, and we did not want to risk causing further irreparable damage to it. Kani’s resulting artwork A Whisper Behind the Grand Tour 2022, powerfully expresses the wider impact of such decisions, and highlights the complex questions we need to consider in deciding how to prioritise limited resources.

As a teenager, having to grapple for the first time with the force of the white gaze, I’d ask myself this question: how do you live without fear or debilitating anger in a world where you’re constantly reminded that your body doesn’t belong to you? The answer, as proposed by the works in this show, is to demand to be seen on your own terms, via the style and attitude that announces your ambitions and desires, your sense of pride and inner belief. Nicolay, Claire. Origins and Reception of Regency Dandyism: Brummell to Baudelaire. PhD diss., Loyola U of Chicago, 1998.Danielle Sprecher, Menswear Archive Curator said: “We are delighted to be able to be a part of this exhibition and to feature garments from the University of Westminster’s important and unique collection of menswear alongside pieces from Manchester Art Gallery’s nationally significant collections, some of which have never been displayed before.” Gallery 13 – themed on the Decorated Dandy – considers more daring styles in the collection, and captures the playful side of men’s fashion. The Decorated Dandy is framed as someone unafraid of extravagance, so naturally many of the pieces on show feature vibrant colours and bold prints. The most spectacular interpretation of the dandy style for women was shown, ironically, not in England, where the style originated, but in Milan. Gianfranco Ferré’s elevated white collars and exaggerated white lapels and cuffs conveyed the essence of the dandy style but in a modern, updated way. A diverse display of clothing, paintings, and photography all work together to tell the story of British menswear – with a specifically Manchester focus. Evening dress through the ages (left to right): Photograph of grime artist JME by Olivia Rose (2017) ;suit by Vivienne Westwood (1997); evening coat (1900-1910); portrait of Alexander Campbell by Sir Henry Raeburn (1810) – photo by Michael Pollard There’s relevance, and there’s chasing after every single trend you can get your hands on. The former, realised through a knowledge of the present and utilisation of classic elements, positions you as someone of note. The latter symbolises more desperation – of seeking relevance and having it regularly leap from your grasp every few months. Considering these factors, modern dandy style sits on classic garments, be it Oxford dress shoes with brogue details, a three-piece suit, or silhouettes from no specific point in time. Yet, their combination feels both current and without a direct timestamp, as if you’ve entered from another era but are knowingly aware of all present customs.