Briwax 400g Wax Polish - Antique Pine

Product Information

Because modern furniture (100 years or less) was better all round sealed it is much less likely to suffer from heat and moisture shrinkage. Sand the wooden substrate in stages, working with a medium sandpaper (120 grit), through to a medium / fine grade (180 –220 grit). Always sand in the direction of the grain pattern where possible, ensuring the removal of any blemishes and glue residue prior to the application of Fiddes Supreme Wax. Take care to remove all traces of sanding dust and test the chosen Fiddes Supreme Wax shade on a similar substrate to verify the colour. A coat of Fiddes Shellac Sealer is recommended on open grained woods prior to application.

Moisturising” - It's hard to believe that a spray polish could be moisturising and again this is nonsense. Only when a finish is disintegrating and dried out will a polish be able to ‘moisturise’ the finish, and this will only work with paste wax polishes. Can this problem be countered with spray polish or any polish?The answer is no. In our experience, antique or period furniture is only ever finished on the outside; the carcass and drawers are always left unsealed, exposing the wood to the open environment. So spraying the polished exterior with ‘nutrient oils’ will do nothing at all. The best way to try and balance any lost moisture from the wood is by opening the windows and letting the air in. If this is not possible, place a saucer of water underneath or close by it. You could even put a plant in the saucer! It wasn’t until the Georgian times that beeswax for wood became the main form of wood finishing wax. This was because Cabinet makers such as Thomas Chippendale, Sheraton and Hepplewhite, all produced catalogues with new and interesting furniture designs. They were polished using different methods such as French polish and then finished using waxes as a protective layer. This could then maintain the furniture by adding extra layers when necessary as Beeswax never goes bad, it can be heated and reused. Wax was an inexpensive way to maintain furniture. This kind of furniture polish was used throughout the 18 th and 19 th Century and is still used today as it is a non toxic, natural product that acts as a wood polish like no other material. The spray oil will darken the exposed wood on an old flaky finish, at the same time as attracting dust and dirt. Furniture is affected by heat but the biggest problem for period furniture is environmental moisture variations combined with temperature variations.What we consider to be a normal wax finish will be a slightly pigmented light brown coloured wax which will produce a warm mellow finish. Often we can show you a piece which has already been waxed which your chosen piece of furniture will look like once all done. Although pieces of old pine furniture will vary in colour and patina once waxed. Apply the polish to manageable areas at any one time, A side of chest, a single leaf or plank of a dining table, one chair or a few drawers at a time. It’s very rewarding to do it this way. Do I Need To Clean My Furniture Before Applying Beeswax Polish? Antique Furniture Wax is one of the earliest forms of Wood polish on record, used for 100s of years on wood surfaces. Wood Wax was first developed from Beeswax. Beeswax has been around for 1000s of years and is the earliest form of furniture polish, recorded in history. Bees Wax Furniture Polish

Oil based polishes that are marketed as a maintenance or cleaning polish, that are intended to be used in the same way as a traditional wax paste polish, should also be very much avoided. In the same way pressurised liquid spray polishes are atomised at the nozzle, hand pumped bottles that contain a very diluted liquid oil work in the same way. Many manufacturers will be using fake beeswax in their polishes. It’s a synthetic and very cheap substitute created by the chemical industry to mimic the properties of beeswax.On bare or stripped woods, Sand the surface to a smooth finish in the direction of the grain. Stain the wood if necessary. On open grained woods, you can stain and seal using a Shellac Sealer, but this is optional. Apply the Supreme wax using very fine 0000 wire wool or buffing cloth in the direction of the grain and allow soaking into the wood. Remove any excess and then once dry, buff to the desired sheen level. Several coats may be added to build further sheen and protection. This can be used on all bare interior woods or furniture. It is not recorded in history, when a polishing wax for wood surfaces was first used, but it has been used as a furniture wax since pre- biblical times. In the 14 th century, beeswax wood polish was recorded, being used for parquetry floors in France. In the 17 th century it was recorded as being used on musical instruments such as Violins.

Not to be confused with oil based finishes that are convertible coatings (they dry to a hard finish) such as Tung, Linseed and Danish Oil. For previously finished woods (especially on antique furniture) I would recommend using a polish reviver first and then finish with Fiddes Mellow Wax Furniture Polish. Replaces the lost oils from central heating” - Again this marketing statement has its obvious appeal but lets looks at how true it is: The mixture does not contain substances classified as ‘Substances of Very High Concern' (SVHC) = 0.1% published by the European We would struggle to recommend a product because we knew that the ingredients were completely unknown and of such poor quality, also of unknown origin. As a nation we are all much more aware of where products and the ingredients come from, more so than ever before.

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A good wax polish should have just the right content to provide a thin protective and sacrificial layer to the furniture, adding to the long term preservation and patination of it.