Premier Range Rapid Grab Glass Splashback Adhesive

Product Information

To seal a wall, mix up some PVA and water in a 50/50 ratio and apply it to the wall. Make sure to leave it to dry before moving on to the next step. 3. Measure the Wall

Depending on the condition this may take a while but it is worth it as it will be reflected in the finished job The condition of the surface of the wall you are fixing to is of paramount importance! You will need to make sure that any and all wallpaper is removed, any flaking paint is scraped off and sanded down and that the surface itself is flat. The use of coloured glass is a great way to improve the style of your kitchen and can create a real feature. A piece of batten comes in really hand at this stage as you can use it to run over the surface and apply pressure to ensure the entire area is firmly against the wall. Make sure the timber does not dig in or scag the surface and damage it as you do this.

If you are purchasing from a supplier then its well worth having one of their reps come out and measure up for you. This may cost a little extra but they will be very experienced in this job and if there are any discrepancies in the measurements then it will be up to them to correct where as if you supply your own plans and measurements then any mistakes will be down to you. If you find that there are extreme dips over large sections of the surface (more than 6mm in depth) it is propably worth considering getting the entire surface re-plastered ( more information can be found in our plastering projects section). Clean and Seal the Wall If measured by the manufacturer, all measurements should be taken accurately by someone with the experience necessary to ensure they are correct Make sure the wall is nice and flat. When the silicone is applied you can always apply more to lift an uneven side that’s a bit lower but you wouldn’t want to be doing this more than necessary. Apply the adhesive to the rear of the glass in dollops. Each dollop will need to be roughly 20 – 30mm in size and they will need to be spaced about 80mm apart. Also ensure that the dollops around the edge of the glass are set in about 40mm as when it is pushed against the wall these will spread out and you don’t want them spilling out from around the edges.

Keeping the protective film on the acrylic, transfer your measurements onto the acrylic sheet using a pencil line and a long ruler. Apply some masking tape over the top of this line and then re-draw it onto the masking tape. The masking tape will ensure that it won’t chip or splinter when you cut the acrylic. 5. Preparation Before Cutting If you need to create joins then it is important that these are done correctly. It is possible to simply glue the edges of the two sheets creating the join together, but due to the inevitable undulations is even the smoothest wall, these joins are often not straight and you always end up with high and low edges. Once applied, wet your finger and run it over each bead wiping off any excess. This will give you a nice, crisp edge and suitable professional look to the whole job. The filing itself will remove the majority of the major burrs but it is also best to use some wet and dry paper to give it the final finish.If you are covering a large area then it may be necessary to use several sheets of acrylic to do so. There are limits to the sizes in which acrylic can be supplied in. If you follow your cutting plan (presuming that it is correct) then the end result should be a perfect piece of acrylic, ready to fit! If you do have the skills to get this spot on then it will create a very neat and almost seemless join, so if you are feeling confident, go for it, but beware, it can go horibly wrong. When using wet and dry paper, this will need to be done in several stages using several different grades of paper:

If your walls are particularly uneven, it may be worth re-plastering first. A few dips won’t cause much of a problem, but like tiling, a level base makes a big difference to the finish. 2. Clean and Seal the Walls If you would like more information and advice on cutting, drilling and even gluing acrylic then see our project here. Once the surface has been prepared and all loose material removed give it a good wipe over with a suitable cleaning agent to remove any dust or grease.

Types of Acrylic Splashback

Acrylic by nature is quite soft, and over time it is inevitable that scratchs and scrapes will occur. The good thing about acrylic is that these can be repaired using the same methods outlined under the "Smoothing and Preparing cut Edges" heading above. Additionally, it is important that you also hold the file as flat to the edge as possible as if you file at an angle, especially where two pieces are joined together, this will widen the joint and again, spoil the visual appearance. Unless either of the above applies to you, the simplest and easiest method is adhesive. Regardless of which you choose, we’ll take you through each method in this guide. The edges of the sheeting should be fixed in place in the joint using bonding adhesive and the joint itself can be fixed to the walls surface using the tape mentioned above. Repairing Scratches in Acrylic You can use various saws to cut through acrylic, including a jigsaw, circular, or table saw. Whichever saw you choose, ensure you use a blade suitable for acrylic, which ideally is a fine and closely spaced tooth blade. According to Cut Plastic Sheeting, wide space teeth will cause the acrylic to chip.