Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Base Rhinox Hide

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Contrast Medium is my S-tier, the soft transitions and all-around capabilities have really convinced me. However, at 26 Euro Cents per ml, it is also the most expensive product. A good alternative is Speedpaint Medium, especially of course in combination with Speedpaints from The Army Painter. You’ll need Citadel’s Gryph-hound Orange and some Contrast Medium. Thin the Gryph-hound Orange with a little medium to create a muddy orange colour.

try to focus the paint onto the nose, brow and cheekbones if you can. How to Paint Imperial Fists Step 12 – Basecoats, Part 1 Varnish with gloss coatThis is a very important detail and will help with our next step. Make sure you give the varnish about 24 hours to fully cure. I’ve been told to do this by the research I’ve done (i.e. YouTube videos I’ve watched) and while I don’t know the magic number of hours needed to cure, I do know that I’ve never had an issue waiting 24 hours. I used Testors for this, again. The best Citadel paint for basecoating brown areas From skin to base rims, there’s a lot of Rhinox Hide on these Middle-earth Uruk-Hai. | Image credit: Caelyn Ellis Highlight everything again, this time with a fine line of Skrag Brown and Ushabti Bone mixed 1:1. This is a good mix to throw in occasional fine lines as scratchesScabbard & Weapon Handles – Base with Screamer Pink, wash with Agrax Earthshade and highlight with Screamer Pink. Eye lenses – paint the full lens in Kantor Blue, then leaving an edge of blue, paint Blue Horror inside. Here is how I painted my very first Cadian. He was done as part of a general edge highlighting video, which can be found on my YouTube channel. Regimental Khaki As always, wait for the paint to dry fully before moving on to the next stage. How to Paint Imperial Fists Step 4 – Reinforce Shadows

Lastly, it’s time to highlight all the metals. This is the longest part of the process, but the one that makes all those details pop and brings the scheme together. I went with Stormhost Silver, as I wanted to maximize the contrast and definition of these models. Normally I’d do some weathering too, but these models are already so busy that adding scratches and such just seems like it would be too much. As mentioned in the intro, the aim of glazing is to simply tint the surface and not let it pool in the recesses like a wash.

Now we arrive at the crucial “grime up” step that’s so necessary for creating that grimdarky finish on the miniature. This stage takes all the effort out of washing and/or shading your models. and yes, it will look much worse here before it looks better. I used to wash the fatigues with Agrax Earthshade on my earlier models, but have moved over to "Marine Juice" as I find using it easier and prefer the result. In fact, "Marine Juice" retains so much of the base colour, you can probably just skip the Zandri Dust and Karak Stone highlight, if you wanted to save time. Green Armour Don’t worry so much if you catch the silver areas when brushing, the grey won’t show up. Do be mindful of any yellow edges, though. How to Paint Imperial Fists Step 18 – Painting Hair First things first: In this post, we talk only about acrylic mediums used for thinning washes like Citadel Shade paints or diluting ink-like paints like Contrast and Speedpaint. There are also a lot of other acrylic mediums that make your paint more matt, more glossy, more transparent or prolong the drying time, but these are not the point today. Are you interested in other acrylic mediums? Then drop me a comment and I’ll see what I can do in a future post or video. Averland Sunset: This reddish orange shade may be used as a companion to Rhinox Hide, creating a vivid and distinctive contrast. The two colours might be combined to indicate heat or energy, with Rhinox Hide symbolizing iron or armor and Averland Sunset symbolizing flames or warning signals.