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The color is navy. Naples is located by the sea and as such this maritime color is omnipresent and the men I met had their first suit all made in navy- and about 50% of their wardrobe consists of some form of navy garment!
Some say that that Italian tailors are so perceptive of the body morphology of a client, that curiously, fewer fittings than usual are necessary to get an exceptional fit. Perhaps Italian tailors have developed a 'sixth-sense' for their craft, since elements of the trade permeate their pores, beginning as early as the age of eight or nine, when these tailors first put a needle to the cloth...or maybe the very essence of being Italian naturally interjects emotion into the cloth that they craft. Peering out past the sweep of the great bay of Naples, there is a sense of ancient history steeped in sedimentary stone, as well as rich stories of the past echoing in the eyes of the people. When we think of historical cities, often our minds turn towards the art that represents the region. In knowing part of the story of Italian tailoring, it becomes easier to understand that just because a suit hails from Naples, it does not mean that the suit is a classic Neapolitan suit, as the roots of tailoring in Naples also include a very present early English influence, which is why Naples also crafts a substantial number of Roman style structured suits.At the moment, trousers are cut narrowly with cuffs that do not show much of a break and you will always find belt loops even though it may be worn with suspenders as well.
It seems that with each hour the Englishman spends attending to the fine details of dressing, the Italian gentleman will spend an equal amount of time making it look as if he has not attended to the fine details of dressing. And, perhaps this is part of the reason that Neapolitan tailoring continues to endure, since it not only describes a specific style, but also an attitude towards putting others at ease, being naturally elegant, and a spirit of not-so-accidental nonchalance.
Another father-and-son team, Gennaro and Luigi Solito, specialise in remarkably light, surprisingly reasonably priced bespoke suiting, primarily in the traditional Neapolitan style but with a willingness to deviate from the spalla camicia if the customer desires. At Sartoria Caliendo, they’re less pleased to eschew shirring in favour of a smoother look — “For me, this detail is a rule!” wrote head cutter and founder’s son Elia Caliendo of the signature Neapolitan ‘waterfall’ effect. Priced between these two sits Sartoria Dalcuore, founded in 1966 by Luigi ‘Gigi’ Dalcuore (then aged 26, he’d already been studying his art for a decade before setting up shop). Gigi’s ultra-snug, soft yet somehow structured-looking house style has won him a legion of far eastern fans in recent years, his daughter Cristina and son-in-law Damiano Annunziato having pursued new markets and social media presence with gusto. The collar is a bit higher than normal, with a gorge that is a bit higher than traditionally in England but nothing extreme
Yet remarkably, the main art associated with Naples today is not music, theatre, painting or dancing...rather, it is the art of tailoring. The historical and present-day tailoring talent in the city of Naples has found such success that it has earned it own classification: Neapolitan tailoring. Once at the market, Gianni spotted a double breasted suit right away that he bought for 2 Euros. Of course it was entirely hand sewn by an old Neapolitan tailor – what a find!
Un peu de tension ne nuit pas à la santé
Silk ties are printed, not woven, though there are many exceptions to this rule. The classic neapolitan tie is lightweight, with a three fold construction and untipped. While Rubinacci always keeps them at 8 cm, Marinella ties vary in width. 7 fold ties are not really Neapolitan and hence mostly sold to Americans and tourists. The front is often single breasted with 3 buttons and 4 cuff buttons. Even in October, it may get very hot in Naples and as such a single breasted suit will wear a little cooler because there are no overlapping layers of cloth. Light as the breeze that blows over Vesuvius,” or so its proponents say, Neapolitan suiting seems tailor-made for this moment in time, meeting the needs of a generation raised on the ease and breathability of athletic attire, but unwilling to sacrifice sharpness in pursuit of comfort.
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