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SMOOVE Long Lasting Universal Bicycle Chain Lubricant for MTB, Road, CX, Etc. 125ml

£9.9£99Clearance
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Because of SMOOVE’s excellent performance in all conditions and its massive staying power, it makes for an excellent lube if you’re one for marathon rides. It’s equally as great if you just want an all-weather lube for your usual weekend blasts because it’ll stay put regardless of what you put your chain through. It's just a bit pricier than some other lubes out there and you'll need to remember to let it dry. I'm now up to 150 miles on the original application, including rides in all weather and a deliberate 20-second soaking of the chain with a garden hose to see if I could shift it. That was 50 miles ago, and the chain is still smooth and quiet. Every bike cupboard should have both a wet and dry lube. Dry lubes are for the driest conditions and cleanest chains. Rinse the chain and drivetrain with sufficient clean water using a hose. Directions for manual cleaning. hawkinspeter replied to Argus Tuft: I've tried paraffin wax myself, but I didn't use any solvent with it. I used to melt the wax in a small frying pan and put the chain in it. Then, sprinkle some micronised graphite on top of the chain and put some paraffin wax granules on top so that they melt and carry the graphite into the chain. Swill around a bit and then remove the chain and let it cool. Once cool, spend a bit of time removing excess wax and flexing each joint of the chain and then pop it on the bike.

When a company claims to make 'probably the hardest-wearing wax-based chain lube on the market,' which 'allows you to ride hundreds of miles between applications,' I'd expect to see some results. Well, I did. I tried the Smoove Universal Chain Lube, and it's true. Most wet lubes will provide efficient lubrication for over 100 miles of riding with one application. If you ride in the winter months a wet lube will resist salt corrosion. Wet lubes are also really good at reducing drivetrain noise.For watt-conscious racers who don’t fancy themselves as chain cookers, companies such as Ceramicspeed, Watt Shop and Zero Friction Cycling now sell pre-prepared waxed chains. I really rate Prolink ProGold if you just want a liquid lube that's clean and good in every condition. However, I've recently been using the Muc Off ceramic dry as I had about a bazillion samples to use up and I have to say I'd really forgotten how good it is both on and off road at this time of year. When a chain is dirty, contamination is present in each chain link in the form of metal particles, dirt or sand etc. These contaminants are suspended within a chain lubricant, specifically the carrier the lubricant is held in, and essentially form a grinding paste which will just wear your chain out from the inside. Even the best road bike groupsets will be ruined in just a few thousand miles if chain wear is terminal. speed chains and name brand chain oils were tested for almost 5 years. For these conventional/oil-based lubes, I followed 5 rules for all tests; If you’re after the fastest, most efficient drivetrain possible, immersive waxing is currently king. Look around any professional race or time trial and you’re bound to spot more than a few waxed chains.

We've heard of riders going much further than this without needing to apply more lubricant, but the review deadline is pressing... As with any products, you should follow the instructions because generally it’s recommended to start with a clean chain before applying lube, rather than just layering it up. Do I really need to lube my chain? After all, the more expensive your parts, the more expensive they are to replace. Have you ever looked up the price of a Shimano Dura-Ace, SRAM Red or Campagnolo Super Record cassette? Yikes… Types of chain lube The performance of SMOOVE Universal Chain Lube requires correct application. Follow these steps to ensure you experience what we say above. If it's not the best chain lube you've ever used, you're not using it right! So what should you use to degrease your chain? SMOOVE Prep of course.

According to ZFC, the difference between a good and bad lubricant can comfortably amount to five to ten watts at a 250-watt load. These losses increase in magnitude as the load increases, too. Some lubricants are also sold as aerosols, but we wouldn’t recommend these for lubricating chains because they’re very difficult to apply precisely. Argus Tuft: One or two weeks between lubes is about right, maybe 300-400km.When it starts to make the whirring sound. I’m the UK importer of SMOOVE and trouble shoot regularly with people. SMOOVE is quite different to other lubes and as such, forces you to break some habits you have when it comes to applying lubes.

So, I have been adding drop wise to the top of the roller for a few years now, the thing that I discovered was that if I did a small drop on each roller and then after doing the full chain doing another drop, it seemed to aid penetration and staying power. With overnight set up and wiping down before riding. I might lose a little more on the rag but it seems to work for me. Smoove is a dry chain lube: best applied a few hours before riding, to give it time to dry. However, unlike many dry lubes, which say they should specifically be used in "dry conditions" (suggesting they are inadequate for wet conditions), the Smoove Lube is a 'Universal Chain Lube' - suitable for all weather riding. You've applied too much SMOOVE. Probably by reapplying too soon or over-applying in the first instance. Wipe away the excess gloop very lightly with a dry cloth and keep riding. It will soon bed in. Squirt's Chain Lube is a wax and water-based lubricant that is noticeably drier and cleaner than most oil-based options. Ideally, it should be applied to a sparkling clean chain and then left for a while to penetrate fully before use, so no last-minute applications before diving out the door on a Sunday morning.I prefer a wax based lube that cleans itself by sheding dirt during use. I make my own concoction using paraffin wax. I reapply every 100 miles whether it needs doing or not and my chains last forever (10,000+ miles). I don't do the hot dip into molten wax method, but instead I use paraffin and Xylene mix to dissolve grated candle wax. I also empty in an equal portion of GT85 for the Teflon/silicone oil/solvent components and to create a thin solvent like solution. I brush this onto my chain libraly to flush out dirt and then wipe with a rag and leave to dry . This results in a very thin coating of wax/teflon lube and a very clean chain each time I appy it. It works out pretty cheap compared to other bike lubes and works exceedingly well, much better than off the shelf lubes I've tried. Having some teflon/silicone oil in with the wax helps keep it working well in cold weather. You will need to experiment with the ratios to use and can easily tweak these by altering the mix after each use until it is just right. I have about 2 litres of the stuff to use up. It needs to be thin. SMOOVE Prep was developed with special “stuff” (read: lots of technical polymer science stuff) that is specifically formulated to clean, dissolve and neutralize SMOOVE Universal Chain Lube in just two easy steps. You will find it far more effective than other degreasers you usually use requiring far less of it. Each bottle can degrease your drivetrain ten times over. Wet lubes are used in all weather conditions but really come to the fore when riding in autumn and winter as they are water resistant so won’t get washed off riding through puddles or in a rainstorm. So if the type of lube is unimportant for efficiency why is there so much choice? Alex Trimnell, Muc-Off’s CEO, has this advice: “Keeping your drivetrain clean and well-lubed is important for a smooth riding experience, but you need to make sure that you use the right lube for the conditions.” I have an old water bottle that I’ve cut the top off of, and I fill that with some degreaser and put that in the rear water bottle cage

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