Cooking: Simply and Well, for One or Many

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Echoes of Richard Bawden’s work for Fortnum and Masons and certainly a spine that you can easily pick out on a bookshelf. A wider, shallower cake shaped and cooked in a cast-iron skillet or frying pan is as delicious as those cooked in hatted moulds. A fixture in the British culinary world due to successful stints running London restaurants, popular newspaper columns, and frequent television appearances, Jeremy Lee offers a beguiling combination of dishes which almost seem to be familiar but carry an aura of difference. The chop goes wonderfully with so much, from olive oil, mash or potato and celeriac gratin to green beans, asparagus, peas, courgettes, Jerusalem artichokes or chicory.

At the restaurant, we like to spread marmalade on a tart case, dot with frangipane, then strew with chocolate and bake. It’s wholesome food with twists but not too much and absolutely something people who love to cook would use. He is a chef in the same lineage as Alistair Little, Rowley Leigh, Fergus Henderson etc; interested in ingredients first and foremost and not swayed by food trends.Lightly oil and season the skin side of the sardines, then lay them in the onion pan, skin side down, and cook undisturbed for 3-4 minutes, until the flesh turns pale. It seems almost redundant to point it out, so obvious is it, but I’ll say it anyway: Cooking by Jeremy Lee is the cookbook of the year. But Lee had long felt a volume of his own work may be simmering away, and when approached by Fourth Estate in about 2016 he knew it was time to make it real, eventually. I had concerns that this would be a book for those upper tier foodies who love to talk about food and restaurants but never actually cook from a recipe book but here are a bunch of comforting recipes written with love often like Hopkinson and Slater referring to family meals of old. The great and good in food are all gushing about this book and as part of food’s upper tier it’s no surprise to see this praise for Mr Lee.

Pork chops - so simple and so delicious; devilled kidneys - sumptuous; tomato salad; simplicity itself. Along the way he indulges in biscuits, blood oranges, chocolate, fish (“shiny darlings lifted from the deep”) offal, potatoes and soup, among other delights.Served with cream, ice-cream and custard, this is very good in those last days of winter when a treat is often much needed. A beautifully written instant classic that is every bit as exuberant and delicious as the man himself!

We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others.Press the cake down lightly with the bottom of a frying pan, then cook for a further 30 minutes, until the edges of the cake have coloured deep gold.