R-11 is assigned an ozone depletion potential of 1.0. U.S. production was ended in January 1, 1996. They explained to me that was the way to clean them since dust caused bad connections. No idea at the time, again, I never, ever had problems with my consoles to do such and argued that there wasn’t enough dust floating around to cause that kind of poor connection and that something was wrong with his connector inside of his console. No idea during that time about oxide corrosion. Some knobs, often the larger ones like the volume knob, have a tiny screw set down inside a small hole on their side, which anchors them to the shaft. With those, you need to use a tiny-sized allen wrench to loosen that, before the knob can be pulled off. Sometimes you'll need a jeweller's screwdriver (Phillips head), but almost all of the brands require allen wrenches instead. Usually these are about 1.5mm in size. Both sets of small allen wrenches and jeweller's screwdrivers can be found cheaply at any good hardware store. Get a set of the really tiny ones, and one of them should fit. Most of the time, if you have followed the above process, your receiver will function fine, and sound markedly better than it has in many years. MOST OF THE TIME, you'll be fine just leaving the relays alone, so you may want to skip this if it intimidates you, but as long as you can get the case open easily, it is worth doing.

Either a little mascara brush (or two) or a couple pipe cleaners and/or some Q-tips (the kind that don't come apart easily). If you buy one of the DeOxit kits that comes with some little things like these, then that's all you'll need. You might also want a few paper towels. If you set your knobs and screws and such all aside carefully, and kept the screws for each section in separate, marked containers as I suggested before, this should be very easy. If you kept the screws for each section separate, then if at any stage one screw is left over (a "proverbial" problem!), at least you'll know which section it came from, which will considerably shorten the time and hassle it will take to find where it goes.A DeOxit kit, with both spray can (with little red straw) and little bottle of red DeOxit, and the same for the yellowish DeOxit Gold (formerly called ProLube). A! The two product lines (probably more products depending on the area needed), would be our DeoxIT® D-Series and DeoxIT® L260D Grease. It was the first widely used refrigerant. Because of its high boiling point (compared to most refrigerants), it can be used in systems with a low operating pressure, making the mechanical design of such systems less demanding than that of higher-pressure refrigerants R-12 or R-22.

I told her what was wrong, she pulled out a pencil and started erasing the gold plated connectors. I’m thinking, OK……. In any case, if you plan to do further troubleshooting, you may wish to plug in and turn on your receiver before re-attaching the casing, to try it out. I you do this, remember that there is dangerous live current inside it, and don't touch anything inside, except the usual controls and such on the outside that you would touch anyway in normal use. Also, if you have the case off, make sure nothing foreign (like a screwdriver shaft, pipe cleaner, etc...) is touching anything inside the receiver. If you accidentally short anything out, you may not only hurt yourself, but you may easily "fry" parts of the receiver. R-11: Trichlorofluoromethane also called freon-11, CFC-11, or R-11, is a chlorofluorocarbon. It is a colorless, faint ethereal, and sweetish-odor liquid that boils around room temperature. (23.77 °C) If there are a lot of knobs with different sizes, you might even want to make a diagram on a sheet of paper, and tape each knob where it belongs, on the diagram. Freon is a brand name, for refrigerants made by Dupont. They use it for all sorts of different refrigerants with different boiling points.Use : Solvent is slower to evaporate, providing flushing action to remove surfaces dirt, grease and other contaminants. Is ideal for connectors and components removed from equipment or those that are easily accessible. Now look at the inside areas of the receiver. There will probably be a few more fuses scattered around the circuit boards inside. One by one (so you don't mix them up!), remove and clean the ends of the fuse itself, along with the little holders that it clamps into. Then replace the fuse, and move on to the next one. Repeat until you've cleaned up every fuse you can find. Here’s my beef with all the “experience trumps book learning” types: when you really understand the part and know how it works in theory, the failure modes are also going to be apparent. I’ve seen guys who genuinely believe that theory “doesn’t work”, i.e. you need some magical personal touch that cannot be transmitted by simply describing the case.

Look at the area behind the faceplate. Can you see the potentiometers and switches? Those are the things that the shafts of the knobs and such on the front panel go into. If you can see them, and access them at least with the little red straw tubes that come with DeOxit spray cans, then you don't need to remove the faceplate. This is the case with most receivers.

KNOWLEDGE BASE

If you are still having problems, there may be something else wrong, like failing components inside. That is for a tech to handle (or DIY, if you are willing to learn enough electronics repair), and beyond the scope of this post. Use DeoxIT when your musical equipment is experiencing loss, such as turning a potentiometer or a switch and creating an unpleasant noise, even a cable connector. DeoxIT can be used on an instrument or any other electronic hardware that relies on knobs and switches, which are prone to dust and oxidation from exposure to atmospheric changes. Likewise, if there are any intermittencies in your signal or if your power supplies are not lasting as long as they should, a spray or wipe of DeoxIT will go The key with any conductivity enhancer is to use it sparingly. A little goes a long way. Small quantities of it help metal to retain or regain its conductive properties. But like any oil, too much of it makes it an insulator, completely defeating the purpose. When you flood a connection with it, your only recourse is to let it evaporate, or clean it off as best you can with a solvent like mineral spirits.