What I would say is it made negligible difference applying onto an Oldsmobile body I painted with Halford car paint 20 years ago. The Johnson Future product (or any of its previous incarnations) has not been available in my country at all. After a lot of digging around online and in hardware stores here in New Zealand, I discovered that there were many floor cleaning products but actual floor polish seemed to be absent. Eventually I found one large hardware chain that sold its own brand of floor polish, so I bought some to try. In the bottle it is a milky colour, but it promised a clear shine, so I tentatively tested it on a model I was building. It was great! It dried to a clear hard finish, though not super glossy, and I've used it ever since.

Notwithstanding the sandpaper surface of my mule, it seems to work fine with no brush marks. The liquitex just took a little longer to dry (2 hours instead of 1 hour). Nowhere near as glossy as my usual Mr colour UV cut gloss but if the paint surface was smooth, easily good enough to decal on and about the same as Alclad Aqua.I just jiggled both my old and new bottles and TBH their viscosity is about the same to my mk1 eyeball but thats hardly scientific so when I'm done Alclad coating my various paid build this afternoon, I'll try my various acrylic flow improvers/retarders ( which is what the glycerine does when airbrushing) with new Pledge and post some results tomorrow, I'm hoping you've just got a duff bottle that they've left the retarder out of.

B: Second thing I noticed was that its not drying to a consistent finish. I tried a hair dryer to see how long it would take, and some patches of the coated area went more satin, and others more gloss. Giving it an almost patchy appearance.RE the brush painting, as I said I don't do any apart from detail touch ups ( and 1/72 pilots of late!) but would add you're never really going to come close to airbrushing using a brush unless you're @PlaStix who may be the person to answer your brushed gloss coat issues. Here's what I used , no voodoo even the brush is an old Humbrol " sable" that i normally use for dusting. I would venture you have a slightly duff bottle. I would persevere and get some of the liquitex and start at a ratio of 1:20 neat and its should start behaving like this. Hope thats bit more useful than the usual " I use it everyday then wash my cat in it afterwards and it works brilliant, see." type of reply with no evidence. First off , Klear/Mission acrylic/Alclad aqua et al dont need ammonia to clean them out of an airbrush , 99.9% IPA will do the job fine after a good rinse and spray through with hot water and detergent. As my brushes are on the expensive side, 5 minutes in an ultrasonic cleaner with detergent/water guarantees no nasties left behind, that and the amount of neat cellulose thinner/gun cleaner going through them regularly will shift anything...

Ive used Future as my go to gloss since the mid 90s when I started noticing decals solution interaction with Testors rattlecan stuff. I started to see stains/tide marks under the topcoat from where the solutions had been. Light at first, but visible enough to be noticed. So then I tried Micro Gloss and Micro Flat. The gloss worked great, but the flat coat gave me problems and I did not have the patience at the time to work thru the problems, so I ditched the stuff, then switched to Future and various bottled flat/matt and satin/semi gloss coats as needed. Currently my go to flat coats are: Humbrol, Tamiya, or Future with Tamiya Flat base added. Does it need to be thinned with water or something, longer drying time etc? I'm genuinely confused so any pointers would be appreciated. Final word, reserve the Pledge/Klear for canopies and decalling, shove a 0.4mm needle in your airbrush , get you some Mr Color super UV cut gloss, Mr leveling thinner an extractor and a respirator then glass like finishes like this are yours, effortlessly:I mean, I never sprayed the previous stuff through my airbrush given that ammonia seemed to be the only guaranteed means of cleaning it out and not risking destruction of the airbrush itself. When using the old stuff I just used a soft brush. However, when trying this with the new stuff, it was leaving brush marks instead of self-leveling and then it was drying to an inconsistent finish. The only difference was in the product rather than the application, and where the old stuff was more like milk, the new stuff is like unthinned Tamiya paint. It doesn't seem to flow or lay down as well and even days after application (while dry) doesn't look to have dried the same way, offering a collage of satin and glossy patches. You'll find Pledge etc. is actually very useful but like any material adapted for a new purpose, you'll need to master it as opposed to constantly looking for one shot magic bullet fixes. Right now I'm learning to french polish and if you think using Pledge is hard...skills are earned not crowd sourced. I continue to read about the wonder of Future floor polish as a clearcoat and easy availability in the US. However, over the pond here in the UK its impossible to find. I went on a mission to find what I think is the closest possible and try it out... "Pledge Floor Polish". You'll see others brands such as "Mop and Glo", etc.; but I'd avoid buying anything that is milky looking in the bottle. If it's as clear as water in the bottle, it may be useful, but it's also not a direct descendant of Future. However, I don't want to spend the committment building a kit to see it ruined by discoloration or, worse, gloppy goo or other problems that I can envision the gremlins of airbrushing foisting on me as I spray a coat of this stuff on something that's taken me months to nearly complete.