My batch of Sublime unfortunately smells like dirty alcohol. Just alcohol, patchouli, ylang-ylang, talcum powder, and this weird plastic metallic Duracell note. Note: This is another one where the card doesnt do justice. Something divine such as this, i believe just doesnt like being on a paper strip. Start small (few tiny squirts) if you're testing the waters then jump in if you or others sense the magic. However, the legacy of Jean Patou has not disappeared into oblivion. The fame of the house Jean Patou is kept alive by Designer Parfums SA (the new owner) and the new in-house perfumer, Thomas Fontaine (read the interview we published last summer). Three classic perfumes were relaunched in 2013: Chaldee, Eau de Patou and Patou Pour Homme. It was nice to get samples of these scents early in the 2014 New Year; there's an old saying which says that the way you celebrated the New Year is the way you'll live it!

As for old-fashionedness, the original formula is nearly 100 years old, and the target age in the 1920s were in their 20s, so the only people likely to have granny associations with these kinds of scents are likely to be granny-aged themselves! I’ve noticed what’s come around again, and what seems on trend, are these “delicious veil” kind of scents—it’s just too bad that Patou is gone, because this is just as good as the Francesca Bianchis, Dusitas, and Slimane Celines that aim for a similar balanced, classical perfumery vibe. Seriously, the alcohol is so strong in this. I feel like I have drenched myself in vodka and then rolled my body all over dirty asphalt. Not glamorous at all. In 1924 the legendary designer, JEAN PATOU was widely perceived as the world’s most innovate and successful fashion designer. When he launched his first fragrances in that same year his rationale was brilliantly simple. Patou adored women ... all women and so as an homage to brunettes, blondes and redheads all over the world his first foray into fragrance matched scents to hair color and appealed to everyone. Ever since then, the House of JEAN PATOU has shaped the world of fine perfume with iconic scents such as JOY, SUBLIME and 1000 that have immortalized its reputation as a symbol of quality and prestige. Still, Patou and Chanel are sisters in that they are designed in the decorative logic of perfumes and fragrances. Adieu Sagesse, Que Sais-Je? - these two and Amour Amor were released at the same time; Patou's idea was that the light floral Amour Amour was suitable for blondes; the tart, spicy Adieu Sagesse for redheads, and the heavy floral Que Sais-Je? for brunettes

Sublime indeed is this creation from Jean Patou...Lauren: I could kiss you! Thanks for all the rich samples and decants you have sent me!! :-)

After 3 hours the perfume is easy to smell on my wrists and wonderfully mellow; dusky florals - jasmine, hyacinth, lilac, Jonquil perhaps - shot through and supported by vanilla and incense. I don't yet know how to detect Tonka Bean or Amber but if I were to give this perfume a colour it would be amber, although it verges into violet territory in the headiness of its florals. After the closure of the haute couture business the company has continued to produce fragrances under the Jean Patou brand. Patou also produced fragrances for Lacoste, when Patou acquired the license in the 1960s, [6] and Yohji Yamamoto in the 1990s. [7] I would NOT say its for warm (ish)-hot weather (tho its possible) but for anytime, anywhere else you desire, Adieu Sagesse: Bright, fun, a bit girly but w/ a sophisticated aura. A posh garden party awaits you.

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Vintages and classics are a corner of the perfume world I'm not particularly drawn to. It's not that I dislike them, but apart from the practical difficulties, they're often the kind of scents I appreciate on others more than I want to wear them myself: however different their note lists, their vibe is often similar - feminine, mature, sophisticated, elegant. All qualities I appreciate, but can't say I possess myself. It's the same with this Sublime, which I got as an extra somewhere quite by chance, and which I think smells like it's been around longer than its 26 years: I like it, I appreciate its quality, and I enjoyed feeling like someone else for a while, but in the end it's just not really my thing and so I don't think I'll reach for my decant very often in the future. Another update I wanted to add on a perfume I have grown to know better over time, and since first trying it my appreciation has grown with familiarity.

There almost seems to be two perfumes in Sublime: it doesn't seem possible that the opening could transition to the dry-down. The opening is fierce and steely: it doesn't waft in the least--it claims its territory aggressively. It's cold sharp green flanked by civet, cinnamon and coriander (acrid enough that it has to be the leaf). If you were to put your nose to your wrist at this point your eyes would sting. After about 10 minutes the citrus and the florals begin to appear and warm the coldness. If you're like me you'll forget the perfume at this point. Somewhere around the half hour mark you'll notice a rich, soft, cloudy amber-wood-vanilla, which is savory and intriguing: the coldness and the green have disappeared completely. In the next few hours this amber beauty pulls closer and closer to you until it fades away. The saddest part of Collection Héritage Chaldée? The base. Though its heart notes are OK and true to smell, and conjure the spirit of 1984 Chaldée, gone is my beloved tropical beach/suntan oil experience that's so sensational in 1984 Chaldée. Perhaps those dense musk and floral amber notes are forbidden by IFRA now...or no longer available? Or was that particular accord deemed "unstylish" for today's consumer? We'll never know. This, to me, is French. This is beauty. Ever evolving, this is warm, Golden vanilla Amber powder. Divine. It slowly does take you higher... Zanon, Johanna " A Dress Named Desire: Contribution to the Titrology of Fashion during the Interwar Years", in Livraisons d'Histoire de l'Architecture 27 (2014), pp. 129–152. Eau de Patou is luminous and vibrant. It conveys a sense of relaxation and rest. It was originally created in 1976 as a fragrance that will be a favorite both to men and women. Its composition gives a sense of freedom present throughout the day. Bright and luminous fruit notes shine with drops of bergamot, Sicilian citrus, Guinea orange and sweet lime mixed with peppery lavender and orange blossom. This fragrance is delightfully fresh yet sophisticated in the manner of Jean Patou.I just got the 2013 version, blind-bought at a good price. I was concerned it might be thin or cheap-smelling, but it’s a very nice warm amber, slight vanilla, and opopanax at the base, while the floral heart is not sharp or pissy. It’s fairly soft and melds well with my skin. Chaldee was originally a suntan oil, so the veil-like quality is understandable. Designers for the House of Patou have included Marc Bohan (1954–1956), Karl Lagerfeld (1960–1963) and Jean Paul Gaultier (1971–1973). Christian Lacroix joined the label in 1981. The last fashion collection produced by the House of Patou label was in 1987 when the haute couture business closed definitively following Lacroix's departure to open his own house. Jean Patou ( pronounced [ʒɑ̃ pa.tu]; 27 September 1887 – 8 March 1936) was a French fashion designer, and founder of the Jean Patou brand.

I just acquired a bottle of Chaldée Heritage Collection and so have the good fortune to be able to compare vintage and current Chaldées side by side. You feel elevated, clean, posh but very comfortable at the same time. Sublime, in word! (pun intended).

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Chaldée – Patou's Huile de Chaldée sun oil had become so popular, many customers were buying it purely for its smell, therefore, Chaldée the perfume (a dry musk) was produced In about 10 minutes Jasmine appears with heady flowers - lilac? hyacinth? - twined, while the myrhh and bergamot provide a character-filled depth to the florals. This is a rich, ambery perfume; aware, considered and with great depth. So, I saw a sample of this Patou fragrance in a bright yellow box (I have a thing for yellow) and came here to read the composition. Sounded promising, if not what I would consider my usual type. I bought a mini bottle and have tried it out tonight. It has so much of the same feel, all of the mysterious powdery luxury of Joy, but so different. It's lighter, warmer and definitely a "yellow" scent from the ylang-ylang, but not screaming-yellow. It's a cashmere-soft, golden, expensive yellow. The ylang-ylang and sandalwood definitely present the strongest, with amber, coriander and oakmoss and also very noticeable. I don't wear most florals well, but the woody elements and the bergamot balance them to suit my skin. Joy" was voted "Scent of the Century" by the public at the Fragrance Foundation FiFi Awards in 2000, beating its rival " Chanel No. 5". [10] I wish I could take the opening minutes and sillage performance of the new one and fuse it with the vintage. Then we'd have the perfect Chaldée: the best of both worlds.