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Regarding the white, there is little difference between Ceramite White and P3 Morrow White. It took about 5 coats for Ceramite White and 6 for Morrow White, I know, the difference is hard to see on the picture. Upon closer inspection you realize that Ceramite White is not a pure white but more of a porcelain white. So for a perfect bright white you’ll probably need to apply a coat of White Scar on top. Still much better than poor old Skull White, which could take 8 to 10 thin coats for a perfect coverage. Glazes are new and compliment the shades. There are four tones, one for each of the three basic colours and green. They are similar to washes, but lighter and thinner and they don’t settle as much in the recesses as washes do. They are meant to be used for tinting areas or to restore colours that have been overly highlighted. You can see a glaze with Lamenters Yellow on the picture below so you can compare the effect with Casandora Yellow above.
My gut feeling was one of red, green, or possibly even a sandy brown for their skin. For the armor I started from the perspective that it would have to be the traditional gold, as that is so iconic for the Lizards. And then I was left with some cloth pieces that would need to be a color that worked with both the skin and armor. Layers are your regular acrylic paint and thus the successors of the Citadel Colours. I always felt the regular Citadel paints were the weak spot of the old paint range. They dried very fast and often thinned down unevenly, both issues that made layering and blending quite hard. There were some great colours, especially the silvers, but all in all both Vallejo, Reaper and Privateer Press had paints with better coverage and a easier to use consistency. Now, as you’ve noticed that some of the surfaces on your model are splotchy where the Yellow Contrast Paint has pooled on the open, flat surfaces. On a space marine, this may mean you have uneven coverage (darkened spots) on the shoulder pauldrons, or along the leg armor plates. 4. Dry brush with a complementary yellow paint For myself, even if I’m aiming for a tabletop ready paint job, I need some semblance of completion in the form of a few details. Thanks for the insight Lizzie! Many of these new paints differ from the bulk of the existing Contrast range in exciting new ways, opening up many possibilities for painters, new and old.
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What you’re looking for in your first coat of primer is a very smooth surface. The smoother your early priming layers, the easier it will be to paint the rest of the model. Make sure mold lines are removed and you don’t create any bubbles in your primer. Yellow is already a flaky, unreliable color. Don’t add to your troubles with a poor primer foundation. I’m not a fan of the look of the facemasks on the helmets, so I snipped these on all the models. I knew this would make painting the mouth area a lot easier too, which was already going to be fiddly. In June, we invited Warhammer TV painting presenter Emma Robinson to talk about her favourite colours and some inspired uses for them. Today we’ve got her co-host, Lizzie Ward, to talk about her 10 favourite paints from the new range and how she has been using them. At the end of it, you should have a smooth consistent yellow base that you can then shade or highlight as you choose. Every once in a while, make sure to rinse the brush in the clean water, even with the glaze being used regularly, the layer paint is gonna wanna dry a little on the brush, use the paper towel to remove excess water from the brush after, and take it from the top again.
Using the dry brushing technique (shown here in-depth), I apply an even layer of Yriel yellow over the entire model to smooth out the splotchy base coat on the raised open surfaces. Dry brushing yellow paint takes care of the uneven base coat surfaces on the shoulder armor and leg armor plates. Color Space Conversions Decimal 16698970 Binary 11111110, 11001110, 01011010 Hexadecimal #fece5a LRV ≈ 66.0% Closest short hex #fc5 ΔE = 0.817 RGB rgb(254, 206, 90) RGBA rgba(254, 206, 90, 1.0) rg chromaticity r: 0.462, g: 0.375, b: 0.164 RYB red: 61.907%, yellow: 99.608%, blue: 35.294% Android / android.graphics.Color -78246 / 0xfffece5a HSL hsl(42, 99%, 67%) HSLA hsla(42, 99%, 67%, 1.0) HSV / HSB hue: 42° (42.439), saturation: 65% (0.646), value: 100% (0.996) HSP hue: 42.439, saturation: 64.567%, perceived brightness: 83.303% HSL uv (HUSL) H: 61.748, S: 97.044, L: 84.974 Cubehelix H: 40.569, S: 1.640, L: 0.814 TSL T: 2.230, S: 0.181, L: 0.812 CMYK cyan: 0% (0.000), magenta: 19% (0.189), yellow: 65% (0.646), key: 0% (0.004) CMY cyan: 0% (0.004), magenta: 19% (0.192), yellow: 65% (0.647) XYZ X: 64.793, Y: 65.956, Z: 18.989 xyY x: 0.433, y: 0.440, Y: 65.956 CIELab L: 84.974, a: 4.817, b: 62.352 CIELuv L: 84.974, u: 39.126, v: 72.811 CIELCH / LCHab L: 84.974, C: 62.538, H: 85.583 CIELUV / LCHuv L: 84.974, C: 82.658, H: 61.748 Hunter-Lab L: 81.213, a: 0.288, b: 42.986 CIECAM02 J: 80.800, C: 50.349, h: 84.149, Q: 177.099, M: 44.029, s: 49.861, H: 90.541 OSA-UCS lightness: -9.846, jaune: 8.864, green: -0.656 LMS L: 72.731, M: 66.487, S: 19.765 YCbCr Y: 193.922, Cb: 69.972, Cr: 157.308 YCoCg Y: 189.000, Cg: 17.000, Co: 104.500 YDbDr Y: 207.128, Db: -176.228, Dr: -89.156 YPbPr Y: 207.872, Pb: -63.520, Pr: 29.336 xvYCC Y: 194.525, Cb: 72.202, Cr: 153.770 YIQ Y: 207.128, I: 65.861, Q: -25.942 YUV Y: 207.128, U: -57.636, V: 41.121 Okhsl h: 86.403, s: 0.970, l: 0.851 Okhsv h: 86.403. s: 0.697, v: 0.996 Okhwb h: 86.403, w: 0.301, b: 0.004 Oklab l: 0.872, a: 0.009, b: 0.142 Oklch l: 0.872, c: 0.142, h: 86.403 Munsell Color System 2.5Y 8,5/10 ΔE = 1.836 Brand Color IKEA ΔE = 3.258 Random Colors Let your viewers’ eye travel over the model by adding interesting points at different parts of the model. If you do want to focus your painting efforts, I would suggest make sure the “face” is well-painted. The face carries the rest of the model in most cases. OPTIONAL STEPS I'd be tempted to consider using something like, say, Mr. Color or Tamiya with lacquer thinner through an airbrush (if you have one) to get the initial yellow coat. Generally speaking, lacquer paints have much better coverage and play a lot nicer than acrylics, and I would imagine that would lessen the inherent problems with yellow somewhat. Mr. Color is an especially nice brand that sprays like a dream- use it with their levelling thinner to lessen the chances of pooling/orange peel. Tamiya works well with Mr. Color thinners too. I haven't actually tried airbrushing yellows from either company, but if their other paints I've used are anything to go by they should work well.
The only time I feel alive is when I'm painting. Vincent Van Gogh
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Color Charts Runelord Brass (brass) is a metallic paint that can be used to add a touch of shine and realism to the model. Brass is a split-complementary color to yellow, which means that it is a color that sits on either side of the complementary color. When used in combination with Casandora Yellow and Naggaroth Night, it creates a balanced and visually interesting color combo.
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