From there, assembly time. Here I thought I’d test the theory that you can build these without glue, and the answer is that yes, you can, and they’re mostly fine. There were a couple of joins that were a little bit looser than I’d like (so I did add glue to those after testing the dry fit) but if you really wanted to go glue-free you could. The hardest parts to work with were faces – GW have devised a clever way to hold these into place, which is that they’re attached to one of the arms and sort of get twisted into position and held by the tension, which works but is a little fiddly to line up, and the main place I went “screw it, adding glue”. http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo So my question is: Has anybody else found this problem with Warpstone Glow, and is there anyway I can counteract it without having to shell out for lots of new paint products?

Basecoat of Warpstone Glow Wash of Agrax Earthshade Touch up large surfaces and ridges/details with additional layers of Warpstone Glow until they reach a smooth and bright appearance Edge highlight with a 4/1 mix of Warpstone Glow and Wraithbone. This gives the highlights a bit of a muted color tone, but it looks pretty decent on the table. You could certainly opt to highlight with a brighter green such as Moot Green or its equivalent Perform touchups of Agrax in areas that may have caught some paint or need to be darkened Salamanders Lieutenant. Credit: PierreTheMime The Skin As a form of pure Dhar, warpstone is a valuable resource for necromancers and Vampires. It is said that Nagash himself consumed mainly Warpstone during his flight from Nehekhara and that it became infused into his very bones and melted his flesh away. [3a] The burgundy triad also has great coverage, the colours are rather muted though. The purple triad boasts great opacity as well, and I especially like Sorcerer’s Cloak, which is a much better covering alternative to Genestealer Purple. I started the army up around the time of the 8th Edition codex release – it was just getting to the point where I was bored of using my Eldar at club nights and starting to do enough events that I thought having a second army to use would be a good idea. I also, bluntly, thought they would be pretty easy to paint, and selected the Sautekh scheme for my army because it was super simple. That did, basically, turn out to be true, but ironically the process of working on this army (plus some other projects I was doing in parallel) was enough of a level-up moment for my painting ability that by the end I was looking for ways to add a bit of flair rather than keep things easy! What is this substance that makes murderers of saints, lechers of the chaste, mutants out of Men? Ah, beloved Wyrdstone, maker of dreams, changer of destinies, destroyer of Mordheim, and killer of a thousand alchemists and scholars alike. But, the visions, the miracles, the wonders that can be had... surely, the risk of madness, mutation, and death are worth the greatness that can be achieved?"The Gold is relatively simple. I use two different methods for the gold in this army. Troops got a simple base coat of Retributor Armor followed by a wash of the contrast paint Guilliman Flesh thinned out. The characters & vehicles got a treatment of Scale 75 gold paints. Starting with a base coat of Decayed Metal, then Dwarven Gold and lastly Elven Gold. Once this is all laid down, I give it a thin coat of Guilliman Flesh.

The Nihilakh dynasty are visually notable for combining teal and gold/bronze coloring on their armor. Most notably, Trazyn originally hails from this dynasty, and the studio paint job for Orikan the diviner also follows this color scheme. In my case, these differences are so minor that you’d have to really go looking for them to find the deviations, but for more experienced painters – or for people who are super committed to their colour scheme – this will be a turn off. This isn’t a shortcoming of the colour mixes, however – the paint simply doesn’t exist within the Two Thin Coats range yet. Given time, this will likely change. Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, These Citadel Layer paints from Games Workshop are designed to be used straight over Citadel Base paints and itself, without any mixing. If you use several layers of this high-quality water based acrylic paint on your models it will create a rich and natural finish that will look as amazing on display as it would 3 hours into a gruelling battle. The paints are supplied in 12ml pots and can be used on any plastic, metal or resin models.Within those 60 paints are 6 matt-finish washes and 6 metallic paints – 3 golds and 3 silvers (though one of the golds is a colour match to Citadel’s Balthazar Gold which is quite bronzy in colour). The other 48 colours are a mix of primary and secondary colours, all of which have been designed to be used as base layers and highlights with each other in the form of “triads” of ascending colour.

Step 3: I’m doing orange weapons. I do a few thin coats of Trollslayer Orange to start. Dot the eye, do the glowing parts of the gun and the cables.

Finally add a few spots of white on the centres of the grills. I avoid doing this on the smaller exhausts as it can be overpowering, leaving those at a yellow We would strongly recommend you give Two Thin Coats paints a go – grab one of the colour triads and try switching it with your usual recipe for a particular colour. See what you think. I like this guy a lot, but my Necron army never got past the stage of being “fledgling” and was mostly painted two years ago, and I think now i would do them differently. The body is just Army Painter silver spray washed Nuln Oil, the carapace is Naggaroth Night then Xereus Purple highlighted with Genestealer Pink, and the green is Warpstone Glow -> Moot Green. The gold is just Retributor Gold washed Seraphim Sepia, and the brassy bits are Runelord Brass which I think was also washed Sepia.

Many different armies, factions, and pieces of machinery can be found in the Warhammer 40K universe. There are a number of options available when it comes to painting with Warpstone Glow. Three armies that work very well with this hue are listed below: Having tried many different recipes for dark gold, one of the best looking i’ve found is deceptively simple. I start with a smooth base layer of Retributor Armour, then add a single very heavy coat of Agrax Earthshade. While i’m sure better results could be achieved with a 12 step NMM approach, this does a bloody good job for little effort. Vallejo airbrush metallics are fantastic, even when brushed on. VMA Gunmetal has completely replaced Leadbelcher for me, though the watery consistency can take a moment to get used to. I’ve used VMA Aluminium in the past as a bright silver which has perfect coverage, but it’s a hair too bright for my tastes. Skin Most warpstone falls to earth in the form of meteorites that have broken off of the sinister Chaos Moon Morrslieb with the majority falling into the harsh domains of the Dark Lands. Warpstone can also be crystallised from a sufficiently powerful current of Dark Magic into small pieces by very powerful sorcerers or wizards. Step 8: The base! I slather it all in Astrogranite texture paint. I also paint the stone by the foot and the scarab with Leadbelcher.Use pure Scale 75 Peridot Alchemy as an edge highlight. For reflex highlights, mix in a little bit of Scale 75 Speed Metal or White Alchemy But the overall performance of these paints is excellent. The amount of work, experience, and passion that has gone into each of these dropper bottles is plain to see in each stroke of paint. There’s a huge amount here to be excited about, and the range is only going to grow as Duncan and Trans Atlantis Games enjoy more and more successes. Whilst they bear similarities to other ranges – such as we’ve seen above in the comparison to Citadel – Two Thin Coats paints are still very different. They will appeal to both beginners and more experienced painters due to their slightly thinner mixes that do not sacrifice pigmentation strength. They require a little bit more work due to their slightly thinner recipe, but this isn’t necessarily a bad thing. In the modern 40k setting, the Salamanders are unusual in that they are formed of seven companies (reflecting the tribes of Nocturne) rather than the ten dictated by the Codex Astartes. Step 9: Wash the whole thing with Nuln Oil. Once that dries, drybrush it with Celestra Grey. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones